Tuesday, May 29, 2012

A Tale of Six Desks

Yesterday I spent most of my day caught up in a whirlwind of bureaucracy. I had to bring all my documentation to the FRRO office (Foreign Regional Registration Office) in Indiranagar (East of downtown Bangalore). However, by 3pm I had successfully managed to navigate the intricate corridors of governmental procedures, and could return to work with a copy of my registration form.

Our story begins early yesterday (Tuesday) morning, with me not being able to roll out of bed as usual. I finally got out around 9:10am, got ready, and took an auto-rickshaw to Double Road, Indiranagar. The first stop inside the building was a registration desk of sorts on the ground floor (level 0), where I had to get wait in line to get a token number. The gentleman briefly looked through my stack of papers, took my photograph with a small webcam, and printed out a small slip of paper with my number. Yours truly, in his infinite wisdom, had forgotten to get passport photo's taken so I had to venture outside to look for a place while the line to the next level diminished. An hour later, equipped with no less than 16 passport-sized portrait photo's, I was back in the building just 3 minutes before it was my number's turn. I could now proceed to.... the next floor!

After having waited for my token number's turn, the 1st floor of the building opened up for the opportunity to wait in line again. There was a myriad of desks and waiting chairs around three of the rooms four walls, and I had to go to the appropriate line for Employment visa's. After a relatively short wait, engulfed in a book I had brought for such inactive purposes, I got to a desk with two gentlemen looking through people's documentation packages.This fabled Desk #2 was the scrutiny desk, where they would make sure I had all the required documents and highlight important info. From horror stories that had been imparted to me, I knew of the dangers at this present location -apparently the taller of the two was extremely strict about letter details. Lucky enough (I think?), I ended up with the shorter of the two  who looked through my documents relatively fast. He then told me to go across the room to another desk.

At desk #3, a gentleman had to write down my token number in a ledger, and I was scuttled along to the next desk. Once again I waited in a line, after which the 4th Desk clerk wrote some more notes on a sheet from desk #2. I was then scuttled over to wait outside a cubicle, where the assistant director signed the note sheet. He then sent me over to a 6th desk, the so-called "counter 3", where I could finally deposit my document package. Yet again, my face was photographed by a webcam (don't they have a shared database?). It was noon, two hours down the line, and they told me to come back at 3pm.

This fresh example of time wastage was actually a blessing in disguise - at least I didn't have to come back the next day, or bring more documentation from the office. I took the time to walk around Indiranagar, and found a local Chinese restaurant where I had noodles with chicken and pork for Rs. 90. I spent the next hour, sipping an iced Mocha and Cafe Coffee Day (local coffee shop chain) while reading my book. I got back to FRRO at exactly 3:00, walked upstairs, signed three copies of the registration receipt, and walked out the door with one of them. Done.

If I hadn't been warned about the multiple lines I would face, I would have imploded several times over. I'm used to seeing government bureaucracy, but the system at FRRO is absolutely draconian. I am really tempted to send them a letter with a blow-up poster of the dictionary definition for the word "streamlined"...

PS: The list of requirements had asked for 2 extra passport photo's, plus one attached to the application form. They returned the 2 spares. So now I have 15 passport photo's I don't know what to do with?!

Saturday, May 26, 2012

Travel Photos: Ohio-Bangalore

Pictures From my Ohio-Bangalore journey:

 Cleveland: Waiting for the bus at around 7am, Wednesday morning

 Chicago Int'l Airport: Waiting with Phu, Wednesday evening

Transit: Abu Dhabi International Airport, Thursday evening

Bengaluru International Airport, Friday at 4:30am local time

I slept around 4.5 hours to wake up in time to leave Wooster at 5:30am. In Cleveland, I had to wait for around 1.5 hours for the bus. I got a haircut in Chicago while waiting for Phu near his hostel. We took off with Etihad Airways around 9pm, and 13 hours later landed in Abu Dhabi where we had a 3-hour layover.

Thursday, May 24, 2012

A Little Helter-Skelter

Monday evening, I managed to get wonderfully lost in Bangalore's commercial area. While randomly walking into the downtown area, I decided to cross MG road (Mahatma Gandhi road - main central road in Bangalore) and followed Kamaraj road north. After a kilometer or two, I saw a myriad of little streets leading west from Kamaraj: I ended up spending 2 hours just randomly walking around checking out stores. The sights were absolutely enthralling - clothes stores, dingy restaurants, road sellers, juice stops, hardware stores, two mosques and a Hindu temple. All packed together in tiny little roads with lots of activity going on. There were snacks to buy everywhere, but I had already grabbed a fruit lassi (thin, sweetened yogurt) on Kamaraj road. At some point, a blind turn lead me back in a circle which was when I stumbled upon a local perfume shop. The salesman was busy filling perfumes into tiny little 5ml bottles, that filled up almost all of the shelf space. I couldn't resist checking them out and ended up with a small bottle of "Minsk" for 40 rupees. Next time, I want to come back and try some of the dosa's and chicken biryani in the little roadside restaurants - local eats in cheap, dingy places is usually what tastes best!

I feel I also need to say something about the traffic in Bangalore. After walking around for 4.5 hours, my throat was beginning to itch and I was about ready to scream every time I heard a motor horn. The traffic is heavy, jumbled, packed with a million motorbikes and auto-rickshaws... like, all the time. Even with 2-lane roads, it constantly looks like rush hour. And then gets jam-packed when it actually is rush hour. But then again, it's an unplanned city of over 8  million people. The smog, dust and noise from the traffic is just something I'll have to get used to until I go to Mysore district. The lack of central planning is, however, also part of what lends Bangalore its charm - every neighborhood appears small and a little helter-skelter in its own unique way. It leads to tons of exploration opportunities. I just really need to get used to the traffic being on the left-hand side of the road, I usually panic a little bit when I have to cross the road...

As I walked back across the downtown area, I saw a homeless man spread a few newspapers on the street to sleep on. It was probably the saddest image of poverty I had ever come across - A grim reminder of inequality in this world. A healthy reminder too, I think. It's always healthy to take a few minutes to think about your purpose in life.

One last note: Walking down Brigade road, a street seller offered me weed. For some reason this amused me intensely, perhaps because it's such a stereotype about tourists. I couldn't help but smile, and tell the guy I'd think about it before walking away. 

Saturday, May 19, 2012

The Start of a New Beginning


The humidity was the first thing I noticed when I stepped outside the airport. It wasn’t oppressive, just engulfing. Not worse than what you experience in Ohio during the summer though, so no worries there. I had just landed at 4:30am local time with Phu, a classmate participating in the GSE program in Bangalore, after flying for over 16 hours. We made our way over to the bus stop and found a bus going into the city. On the way we both felt a strange familiarity from the sights – to myself, the sparse stretch of shops and buildings looked both similar yet very different from suburban Kigali City in Rwanda. Sitting on the bus, we both began to realize that we had finally arrived in Bangalore.

In spite of having traveled for a day and a half through 10.5 time zones, I felt surprisingly awake. I realized it must be because in US time, it was late evening which is the when I’m most active. My trip had started at 5:30am Wednesday morning, just outside of Wooster, arriving in Cleveland at 6:45 in plenty time for my morning bus to Chicago. The past three days had been a flurry of late night packing, closing procedures for ResLife, reassembling beds, moving stuff into storage in the wee hours of the morning and emptying out my room, so I had only been sleeping a few hours a night. In Chicago, I had some time to kill before meeting Phu so I had my typical Subway traveling lunch and got my hair cut (finally). We flew out of O’Hare International airport with Etihad Airways at 9:30pm, and had a 3-hour stopover in Abu Dhabi. Flying for 13 hours straight in our first leg was the longest I had done before, but it went perfectly smooth – the food was good, there were plenty of movies to watch, and drinks were free.

It is in the middle of the night as I am writing this; I woke up from jetlag around 3:30am. I feel quite accomplished from my first 24 hours: I found my way to the project office for DreamConnect with an autorickshaw where I met the staff, we located a PG room for me (Rs 6,500/month incl. 16 meals a week), and I learned how to use the bus system. The room is literally 2 minutes walk from the office, there’s a gym right around the corner, and there are plenty of shops nearby so I really like the arrangement. I have to go back to DreamConnect today and get started on planning work, and on Sunday I’ll probably move my stuff into the room. I’m super excited to explore the rest of the city and try out all the great food. Let’s see how long I can go without getting an upset stomach, haha.

As corny as it may sound, I truly believe that this is the start of a new beginning for me. If I see the things I expect to here in Karnatake, this will be an invaluable experience for me that will sit with me forever. Moreover, it may well promise a whole new chapter of my life in South Asia.