Sunday, July 8, 2012

Kerala Pt. 3 – The Bus Ride of a Lifetime


Saturday morning, we had breakfast on the houseboat and docked around 9am back where we had started. We immediately took an auto-rickshaw to Alleppey’s main bus station so we could go to Vagamon hill station as fast as possible – it was a location the houseboat owner had suggested to us as an alternative to Munnar, which would be too far from Kochi. At the bus station, a handicapped guy who spoke really good English wanted to help us find our way, and even walked me over to a station manager to find out where we had to connect buses. The guy needed a crutch for one of his legs, and made a meager living from selling lottery tickets to people. My past experiences made me vary of seeking help from him at first, but after we had figured out our destination, he just… said a friendly goodbye and walked away. 


 We took a bus to Erattupetta, which took about 2.5 hours. Erattupetta is just outside the ghats mountain range, so in the near distance you could make out a single peak above the trees. Barely 10 minutes out of town however, the road soon started twisting and turning between mountains that rose ever higher and higher. Spectral beauty, deep nature, and the feeling of home – it was the most amazing bus ride of my life! Even though Vagamon is only about 30 Kilometers away, the trip took one-and-a-quarter hour; time that flew by as if they were mere minutes – Tall and beautiful mountains, with views that got better and more spectacular at every turn of the road (once the cloud cover had lifted that is). It was the most spectacular road trip imaginable, comparable to driving through the Nyungwe Mountain Rainforest in Rwanda. The mountains reminded me strongly of Western Rwanda, perhaps Gisenyi province, and I realized that my 7 years spent there have given me a deep-seeded feeling of attachment to mountains. Now more than ever do I know that one day, when I grow old, I want to retire somewhere in the middle of nowhere surrounded by steep mountains.



From the time we arrived in Vagamon till we left it seemed to never stop raining. It’d either be downpouring, drizzling, or at the very least really misty and foggy. After finding a cheap hotel room (Rs. 600), we started walking towards something called the Vagamon Meadows. I have to admit that I had no idea what it was at the time but I figured we should just go to the nearest attraction – still gonna be mountains, right?! It was farther away than we expected, and it rained on and off the entire time. Every once in a while, a carpet of misty clouds would cover the road or an enclave by the side of it. Every once in a while, the occupants of a car or motorbike would wave and cheer at us as they drove by. 

The view from our hotel room in Vagamon
The Meadows are, officially, an area with gently rolling hills that are all bright green from grass and almost completely bare of trees. We paid something like 5 Rupees each to enter, and walked around for about an hour. Several Indian families came while we were there. At first it was impossible to see anything beyond the hill we were standing on because of the thick layer of clouds that covered everything. After they mists dissolved, we could see all of the half-a-dozen or so hills that made up the meadows. It was quite idyllic to just walk around, up and down the hills and back again. 




 
When we walked back out the gate I pointed to the tallest mountain in the vicinity, and said “we should totally climb up there, it’s not that high up”. There was quite a lot of objection from Phu, who I think was tired from walking around so much. But I guess I just slowly nudged us all in the direction of the mountain with my argumentation. It barely took ten minutes to get there anyway. There was a car parked near the top, and we politely said hello to the group of people standing around it (and chilling). It was one of them that later told me that everything surrounding us was called Vagamon Meadows. Up at the top, we saw boulders strewn at random that gave it a harsh and barren look in a beautiful sort of way. The view was amazing! We could see several kilometers in all direction, and each and every line of sight presented a unique mountainous view to gaze upon. This was one of the occasions when I just went absolutely nuts taking photographs instead of drinking in the beautiful sights with my own eyes. I always say that one sees the world differently through a camera lens, somehow more clearly; but I wish I had taken some more meditative time up there. 

Parisa Ahmadi




 Yours truly

On the way down, we talked to the group of men by the car. Several of them were involved with a travel & tours agency, which is what I think was their main motivation to talk to us. They were kind enough to offer us a drink though, so I tried some Indian-produced agave tequila for the first time. We walked all the way back to Vagamon (about 5km), had a mediocre chicken biryani for dinner, and went to bed after watching another episode of Game of Thrones. We had to get up early the next day.


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